By: Indy

For many years, ever since I was a young child, I have looked up to the graces of Royal Robbins. I admired him for his stature, his presence, power and prowess, but most of all, I admired him for what he stood for. It seemed that his personality always demanded respect for what he had done and for what he still had left to do. His combination of knowledge, experience, and wisdom, are admirable, but the true personality of Royal comes from his drive and determination. The presence of such a man is dominating. Sensing his ultimate stature, I decided that I had to bring him to St. Louis for a slide presentation. Thusly, our story begins.

For myself, the name "Royal Robbins" has always has always carried a kind of mystique. His was the name of "…been there, done that." The history, controversy, and legend, that accompanied Royal, was something that I could never understand. Even if I could understand it, I’m not so sure that I would want to invade his understanding and interpretation. Royal has been, and still is, extremely vocal in the climbing community. At first glance, Royal was always the person that created the standard and implied what should or could be acceptable. This is a broad statement! Royal always completed new first ascents, which were the standard for the world’s most difficult climbs (many of which still are), but he did them with a sense of style and grace. It wasn’t dragging up something new just to say "you had done it," but it was a rising to the spirit and adventure of the rock, which was accompanied by a heightened sense of awareness that made the climbs even more special. Many of Royals’ climbs aren’t fun, they’re down right hard. This doesn’t translate that easy climbs equate to fun climbs, or that all hard climbs are not fun. The fun is a byproduct of the experience. Royal wasn’t climbing for fun or to create a name for himself, but rather, he was climbing for the adventure. This interpretation of adventure, as described by Royal, was 1) an event with an unknown ending, and 2) some type of risk (physical, mental, or sometimes embarrassment).

There is a certain type of honesty and truth about adventure. In our increasingly complex society, adventure is one of those words that is blindly cast into meaningless conversations. To the "Average Joe," adventure can be easily dismissed. Concerning Royal, I’m not so sure that he could translate what adventure means to him. The actual definition is easy, but to grasp the fundamental spirit of adventure is another matter, entirely. The amount of courage that must be assembled, in order to surmount a great peak such as El Capitan is enormous. To say that Royals’ adventures were only encountered on El Cap, is a misconception. What about the solo ascent of Leaning Tower, what about the first ascents at Tahquitz, what about his boating, what about the first ascents on the Dru, what about the Half Dome first ascents, what about…..

Since Royal was the best, he always did things in the best style possible. This "best style" thing has always been the topic of heated debate. It doesn’t mean "the best that the individual can do," but "the best that everyone can do." Since he was the best, his style was the best. Notice the use of the word "everyone." It’s important to note that the word "anyone" is not used. All of us (everyone) must strive for what is the best, the most glorious, and fulfilling for the individual (anyone). "Everyone" is the team, the whole, the unit, while "anyone" carries an implication of individualization and selfishness. The sooner that we realize that we’re all in the boat together, the sooner that we can further the adventurous spirit and desires that live within each of us.

Royal was always the person to tell other climbers what was acceptable (as far as style and ethics were concerned), but he was also quick to express that climbing should have few or no rules. Often, Royal would translate his feelings through his actions. There is a lot to be said about "living out your vocal expressions." He would rarely preach his teachings, but rather, he would show others what was possible through his own accomplishments and achievements. Excitement and passion are powerful forces that individuals often have trouble containing. Without a certain amount of self-control, our feelings can be mistaken as anger or rage. Royal found no trouble in bridling his emotions. It’s one thing to tell people what should be acceptable, while it’s another to show them what is acceptable.

After Royal accepted my invitation to speak in St. Louis, I started making a list of questions that I wanted to ask him. I thought, "Now is my chance." I wanted Royal to sit me down and lay it out for me. After all, he didn’t have to convince me to care about climbing; I’ve already got that one licked. I wanted him to pass me the torch, to tell me that I had to carry on, and that I should try to make an impact. I wanted him to tell me to touch others in the same way as he had touched my life. It didn’t work like that. Well, not at first, anyway.

My questions were specific. "What about the route…? Where did you go when…? Did you place that bolt on…? How many…were used on…?" Without hesitation, Royal tried his best to answer my questions. It struck me that he didn’t know the answers to many of the things that I asked. I knew that most of my questions dealt with routes that he had not climbed in twenty years, but he was Royal Robbins; he had to have the answers! It’s funny. If he had just said, plainly, "I don’t remember," it would have been different. Rather, Royal would sit and think, rub his beard, and speak slowly and softly, saying things like, "Let me think. Oh, it’s been so long. Alas, I just don’t remember." It wasn’t what he said, but how he said it. It had a grace and wisdom that seamed to have an overflowing quality of power and knowledge.

I had two categories of questions. The first group dealt with the "who’s, how’s, and the when’s." These were more historical than inquisitive. The second group was more personal. Plain and simple, I wanted to ask him about style and ethics. In the past, Royal was extremely vocal about these topics, but it is a fact that he has grown tired of discussing such things. There is a difference between asking about the past and asking about ones’ role in the past. I stopped and thought before I crossed that line. After a long personal battle, I reached a conclusion. I decided that it wasn’t fair for Royal to always make decisions that molded the climbing community. Why should he always bear the labor (and burden) of setting style standards? If I asked Royal those intimate questions, and I acted according to his responses, my actions would be through Royal, as though he was controlling my actions. I couldn’t ask him. I had to decide on my own what is right. Right, not only for me, but what is right for the people that I impact. I decided that I would try to shape the climbing community through my actions. I will be responsible for my own actions and I will let others decide their own futures through my actions.

Teachers have a powerful position. We are able to create, mold, and lead students down paths that we see as proper. The student is at the mercy of the instructor. If the teacher decides to lead pupils down a path of corruptness, it often goes without question. I feel that students should be shown all aspects of what they are being taught; there are always two sides to the coin. If students are unable to make their own choices, concerning what they feel is right, all of us have become mindless drones. I realize that I am in a unique position to mold students as I see fit, but I encourage individuals to show independence and think on their own. I must always question my own motives and look for what is good and honest in my teachings. My only desire is that I can help other people to see what is good in their actions and in their personalities; sometimes we need a reason to feel good about being who we are.

As Royals’ trip neared its end, he slowly became aware of the group that surrounded him. He learned that the climbers in St. Peters weren’t awed by where he had been, but rather, they were struck by how he had gotten there. He found that we were quick with a joke and a smile, but we were just as eager to pass a kind word of encouragement. We are not climbers, meaning that we are people that climb rocks, but we are people that happen to be climbing through the adventures of our lives. We should not be labeled by our activities, but rather, we should be molded by our actions. Royal noted that we didn’t squabble over accomplishments or bicker over abilities. He was surprised to find that we were eager to share in the experience. That experience just happened to be climbing. Royal later stated, "These people (climbers of St. Peters) truly have a wonderful spirit. It’s just like the old days. They really do understand and care. They are probably the finest group of climbers that I have ever met."

When I took Royal to the airport, I was sad to see him leave. Just before he got on the plane, he grabbed me with both arms, looked me dead in the eyes and said, "You’ve built a great thing here. You really have something special. Don’t let it get away from you." Before I could speak, he turned and was gone. I felt a great lump rise in my throat. My hero had spoken to me in such a way that brought tears to my eyes. That was it. I was refreshed with the spirit of living. I felt as though I could do anything. In his own way, Royal had thanked me for his visit.

After having a few days to reflect, I am happy. I am happy for not asking Royal those silly questions. I now have things that I want to accomplish through my own actions. I want others to see that they can rise up and be more than they thought possible. I am happy that other climbers had a chance to be touched by Royal. It was great to see the light of expression in the eyes of such great individuals. To all of the climbers of St. Peters, I thank you. I want you to know that I am proud of each and every one of you. I am happy that we are such great friends and that we share a common bond in the world of climbing. Though we may, one day, stop climbing, let us never depart from our common friendship. Finally, I am happy for what I learned from Royal. I will try my best to do good in the world.