
According to Royal Robbins, climbers should always try to "up the style" or improve upon the manner in which a climb is done. What does this mean? Roughly interpreted, to complete ascents in the best style means to ascend just as the first ascent party did or better. Usually, the style pertains to the equipment and how it is used. For example, if a first ascent party used pitons to ascend a rock face, traditional gear (nuts, cams, etc.) could be used to better the style, while bolting would lessen the style. We should always strive to push the standard of climbing. The difficulty of a climb should never be brought down to the ability of the climber; climbers should rise up to the difficulty that the rock presents.
There are several areas that style can be improved; belay system, speed of ascent, technique, previewing & knowledge of a route, and the type of lead equipment that is used. The belay system used in an ascent makes a difference in the overall physical and mental difficulty. A top rope or top belay make ascents less mentally challenging or scary, while leading adds to the fall potential. Since falling adds a degree of fright, climbers might be less willing to commit to individual moves, thusly, increasing the difficulty of the climb. Usually, the speed of an ascent pertains to the amount of fixed lines and number of bivies that a party uses. Speed ascents are becoming increasingly popular. Climbers should strive to decrease the numbers of bivies and try to eliminate fixed lines as a tool of retreat. Climbing technique always saves energy. Improved technique allows climbers to find hidden rests and climb with fluid movement. Previous knowledge (previewing) of a route always makes an ascent easier. If a climber top ropes a climb before deciding to lead it, is much easier than an onsight lead. Previewing a route gives the climber knowledge about where the difficult moves are and where lead protection should be placed. Ultimately, the type of lead equipment used by the leader is the source of greatest controversy. This battle is ongoing and never-ending. As newer equipment is invented, climbers are reluctant to accept the new equipment as "the standard." During the 1950's, pitons were the norm. The 1960's saw the use of chocks and nuts, while the 1970's saw spring loaded camming devices. The 1980's ushered in the acceptance of grid and rap bolting. With the exception of sport climbing (the use of expansion bolts for lead protection) most of the gear advancements focused on improving the style of climbing by lessening the impact, by climbers, concerning rock degradation.
The argument that bolts are necessary to protect "fragile ecosystems" is mute. Permanent anchors have been limited at popular climbing areas like The Tennessee Wall and at The Gunks. These areas effectively use slings rather than bolts. Rather than place "chained"anchors," climbers should stop wrapping their rappelling lines around the trunks of tree. When climbers pull their ropes, the trees are girdled and eventually killed. Here's a great quote about the "chained anchor" situation:
"Would you approve of lowering chains on trad routes, to help cut down on erosion at the edge of the cliff? I personally think this is a great idea, as I see lots of excess erosion happening at the tops of the "top ropeable" climbs. Put the chains lower...problem solved. They can't be reached. (Or people rap from a tree to get to them.) Can't win either way, I guess."
I think that this quote summarizes the entire idea. Either lead a climb or bring some webbing to set up a top rope; don't rely on bolts as excuse for why "YOU" are trampling the vegetation.
As a general rule of thumb, style is always improved upon if a climb is done without altering the original condition of the rock. This is the most important rule to remember. If we, as climbers, destroy the natural resource of natural climbing areas, future generation will have nothing to experience. After the grid bolters have come and gone, the sense of adventure and spirit of solitude, will have been destroyed. We should use fixed anchors with alarming haste. Fixed anchors should be used when no other alternative can be found. Even at this point, we should ask ourselves if the climbing community, the climbing area, or ourselves will be improved by the placement of the fixed anchor. In most cases, the overall answer is NO. Early sport climbing was focused on movement without the concern for safety of equipment; sport climbers assume that bolts are indestructible. Modern sport climbing is focused on ego, saving face, and making a name. The true passion of the sport has been lost! It is possible to have fun without "climbing the most difficult thing out there."
The differing opinions concerning style can make the entire subject confusing and tiresome, but the accepted levels of style are undisputed. The following chart shows the topic of style in the order of best to worst.
| Lead Equipment | |
|---|---|
| 1 Best | Traditional Gear (chocks, cams, tri-cams, etc.) |
| 2 | Pitons (LA's, Angles, Heads, etc.) |
| 3 | Removable Bolts |
| 4 Worst | Bolts / Sport Climbing |
An integral part of climbing is the virtue of style. If climbers continue to place and use bolts when they are not necessary, there can be no "style." There must be standards as to when bolts are not acceptable and when they are necessary. This distinction is easy; permanent anchors (especially bolts) should never be placed in the proximity of good Traditional protection! If any other type of anchor is present (nuts, cams, trees, boulders, etc.) permanent anchors should not be used. Removing permanent anchors, when they are not necessary, ensures the preservation of the natural environment, lessens human impact on the rock, and raises the integrity of "how and why" we climb; thusly, the virtue of style!