This is a letter that was sent to me by Robert Freeman on April 4. Before I start, I must say......Gad Damn! Robert Freeman, you are a weenie. Anybody that would put such a stupid, moronic....... I'm sorry! I got a little carried away. Anyway, here is the message that Robert posted to me. I have provided my answers under his questions (in yellow).

Posted by Robert Freeman on April 04, 2000 at 16:52:28:

Indy, Thank God for Indy,

You know, just when I was getting really discouraged and about to hang up the old drill for good, you came along and posted the “Formal Rules Concerning Bolt Removal.” Well all I can say is “It’s about God Damn Time!!” Whew.

But I must ask some questions about the “Formal Rules Concerning Bolt Removal” and the subsequent exceptions to the rules.

1) Do these rules pertain to climbers everywhere or do they just pertain to climbers in the Midwest?
They should pertain to climbers everywhere in the US. Why should climbers have the right to place bolts near adequate traditional protection?

2) Who is going to enforce these rules?
I am! Look out! I might chop one of your bolts.

3) Will you adhere to the rules? Scenario #1 If you can place natural pro - say 4 feet 3 inches - from a bolt, will you chop it?
Yes, I have already adhered to my rules. If I wanted to chop bolts, don't you think that I would have chosen any bolt that I could find? Why would I be particular as to which one I chopped? Damn! Use your brain. The rules are what I held myself to before I started chopping.

4) Are we all required to carry tape measures or some measuring device while climbing? How strict are you on this rule?
Very strict! If you don't know four feet, I guess that you will have to carry a tape measure before you chop.

5) I have to place a piece of gear every 10 feet?
Duh... Isn't that what the rule says? Yes, every ten feet.

6) If I place a piece of gear, do I have to test whether or not it would hold a fall before I move on?
If you don't know the difference (by visually inspecting) between which piece will or will not hold a fall, you need to stick to sport climbing.

7) If each piece of gear has to hold a fall, from what height?
I think that we cleared that up in your #5. Uh, a piece every ten feet would result in a maximum fall of twenty feet.

8) Is there a weight requirement to the climber placing gear in soft sandstone as per if it would hold a fall?
I guess someone who sits in front of a computer all day would have a weight limit. Let's see. Since the gear is rated to around 25kN, that would be the weight limit.

Rule 4 states “The placing of protection or the clipping of that protection cannot be the crux of the climb - 9a) Does this mean that if I’m climbing and I have to place gear that will make it the hardest move on the climb that I can clip the bolt and move on to the real crux of the climb?
Usually, the placement or clipping of protection (other than sport climbing) is not the crux. Let me think...... Yea, I think the same would be true here. Well, to answer 9a, to chop the bolts equates "not to use the bolts." Why the hell would you want to clip a bolt when you could place gear?

9b) Does this mean that the placement of gear can’t increase the difficulty of the climb?
"Hello, McFly!" Please see the previous.

10) If I’m on a 20 foot climb that has four bolts does that mean I have to put at least two pieces of pro in?
NO! It means that you have to put four pieces of pro in. Can you not read exception rule #1?

Exception 3 states “Any bolt that can be touched or clipped from the ground does not need to be protected by a natural piece.” 11) Are there human height requirements to this rule? 11b) If so can there be some type of "equalizer" put in the rules so that everyone climbing is the same height?
If you are worried about this crap, please go back to plastic, you gym Gumby.

12) If I’m on a climb and I can traverse from the second bolt 6 feet to the left, but place a piece of gear within four feet of the second bolt. And from the 6 feet to the left climb straight up putting in great gear and then at the 4th bolt I traverse back to right, skipping the crux of the bolt line but then putting gear in the rest of the way up to climb, but there is no gear placement within four feet of the last bolt, yet 4 feet five inches away from the bolt there is a piece that I can place from the same stance I would use in clipping the last bolt. Do I get the redpoint?
No. Four feet from every bolt, you ass! I was assuming that you would be man enough to climb the same route as the bolted one. Oh, I almost forgot. Sport climbers sometimes cheat by going off route. Since I am a trad climber I overlooked the error of your ways.

13) If one brother boards a bus in Tennessee and one brother boards a train in Chicago and the bus averages a speed of 60 mph and has no stops and the Train averages a speed of 90, but has two 15 minute stops in Springfield and Mt. Vernon, who will get within four feet of placing a piece of gear 10 feet above the last bolt first?
Uh, well, uh, I guess the guy from TN (since that is closer to real trad climbing than is Chicago).

14) If I’m standing on the ground and reach up and put in a piece of gear from the ground and then climb up to it and clip my rope - Is that considered pre-placing gear?
If you need to place gear from the ground, you disserve to hit the deck.

15) Basically, the four-feet rule can be overruled at anytime - Right?
Uh, you are a stupid ass. The answer is no!

16) Referring to “exception #3" how do you judge the “stance” from which any fixed piece of gear will be clipped? (See question 11)
Did you rest? That's the stance. Can you reach the bolt? That's the stance.

17) Who is the judge in “exception #1? Is this come to by consensus? Is dialogue with the FA necessary?
Only sport climbers would ever "over bolt" a climb. In this case, no, the FA consent is not necessary, since he is probably a weenie, too.

Answers to all of these questions would be helpful I really enjoy climbing, but I don’t want to break any rules

Thanks
Bob Freeman
P.S. 18) If you want this controversy to be over, why do you keep doing things like this?
For the same reasons that you keep posting crap like this.

19) If you say you are done chopping bolts, why do come up with the rules for it?
These are the rules that I followed. Do you have rules for your bolt placement? If so, please let me see them.

20) I thought you didn't care anymore?
I didn't, until your sorry ass came along!

I'm sorry if I got a little out of control, but this is the kind of shit that people send me. I follow my rules! Let's see if the sport climbers can "imagine" or "make up" some rules to justify their actions.